Kewa Heishi Bead Necklace

Namenecklace

Date1950s

Mediumshell, silver, Cord

DimensionsOverall (hanging length dimension; silver cones, 2.6cm x 0.8cm; silver beads 2.1cm x 0.5cm; average shell bead 0.25cm x 0.23cm): 15 1/2 in. (39.3 cm)

Credit LineBequest of Dorothy Zama May

CultureKeres | Kewa | Santo Domingo

Object numberA1996-1-97

ClassificationsMay Collection

DescriptionHand made; six strand necklace made of cylindrical olivella shell beads, strung on synthetic cord, with each end drawn through four lenticular silver beads, a silver cone, and ending with hand made silver hook and eye closure; dark gray silver, brown cord, and varying shades of brown, and cream olivella shell beads.

InterpretationsPer Joe Cate, Santo Domingo heishi maker: "Early heishi was made with flat green turquoise, because green was softer and easier to drill. Heishi is from the Santo Domingo word meaning 'shell, and various types of shell, cut, drilled, ground, and polished are used to make the cylindrically shaped beads. It is considered the oldest form of jewelry in New Mexico, predating the introduction of metals. Centuries ago, shells used by the Pueblo Indians to make beads came from the Gulf of California. The steps to make heishi necklaces are: (1) Raw materials are chosen; most commonly used ones are seashells of all kinds, olivella, spiney oysters, mother-of-pearl, and melon shells. Contemporary heishi necklaces can be made of coral, lapis, turquoise, jet, pipestone, and serpentine. (2) Raw material is sliced into strips with a whirring blade. Using nippers, these are cut into small slightly rounded squares. A small hole is drilled into each square, and these are strung on fine wire. The strung beads are shaped by moving the string again and again against a turning stone wheel, controlling the fineness and diameter of beads with the hand. Many beads will be lost during this process. Each type of material must be ground separately because of the different degrees of softness and hardness of each material. The strings of beads are then sanded and smoothed using fine grade sand paper. The string is then washed with clean water and put into the sun to dry. Finally the string of heishi is given a high polish on a turning leather belt. The smooth polished beads are then ready to be strung into a necklace." As of 1/2010, Santo Domingo Pueblo is now known as Kewa Pueblo, NM.

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